Perry Ellis International Inc.

Moat: 2/5

Understandability: 3/5

Balance Sheet Health: 4/5

Perry Ellis International Inc. designs, sources, and markets a broad range of apparel, accessories, and fragrance products across a diversified portfolio of owned and licensed brands, primarily through wholesale channels.

Investor Relations Previous Earnings Calls


The moat, understandability, and balance sheet health scores reflect a conservative evaluation to ensure a margin of safety in any assessment.

Perry Ellis International Inc. (PERY) operates as a fashion apparel company, not a technology company or a software company. The business model of fashion is very different from the rest.

Business Overview

Revenue Distribution

PPERY generates revenue primarily through its wholesale business, selling to major department stores, specialty stores, and mass merchants. While the company has a direct-to-consumer (DTC) channel, it’s a smaller portion of their overall business. A diverse portfolio of owned and licensed brands provides revenue streams, including:

  • Perry Ellis: The flagship brand, offering a range of apparel.
  • Original Penguin: A lifestyle brand with a focus on sportswear.
  • Cubavera: A brand that focuses on Latin-inspired apparel.
  • Other Licensed Brands: The company licenses out its own brand names and the brand names of others for specific products.

The apparel industry is intensely competitive, affected by several factors such as changing consumer preferences, seasonality, economic cycles, and the constant pressure to innovate and design new products to gain market share. Here are key trends:

  • E-commerce Growth: Online sales continue to grow, forcing traditional retailers and brands to adapt to new business models and invest in their own online presence.
  • Focus on Sustainability: Consumers are increasingly interested in sustainability, forcing brands to use sustainable fabrics and production processes.
  • Rise of Fast Fashion: Some consumers demand frequent and trendy clothing at low prices, which intensifies competition in the apparel space.
  • Brand Awareness: Creating a strong brand identity is vital to success, because this creates some loyalty and allows to command higher prices.
  • Direct-to-Consumer Channels: Companies are increasingly focusing on direct sales to consumers, in order to keep a closer relationship with their client base.

Competitive Landscape

PPERY faces stiff competition from other established apparel companies, as well as emerging brands. This competition is particularly intense due to factors such as:

  • Low Barriers to Entry: It’s relatively easy for new competitors to enter the market, especially with direct online sales channels.
  • Fragmented Market: The apparel industry is very fragmented, with no single company dominating the market.
  • Low Switching Costs: It’s very easy for customers to choose competing products.
  • Fast-changing Trends: If a brand is not up to speed with the latest trends, it can be easily outrun by the competition.

What Makes PPERY Different

What makes PPERY stand out is that it uses a diverse portfolio of both in-house brands and licensed brands. It also has a substantial wholesale base, this may be considered both as a weakness (not enough focus on online) and strength (more diversified revenue base). Its ability to adapt to market trends will determine its long term success.

  • Brand Portfolio: The range of owned and licensed brands allows PERY to serve a variety of customer preferences and demographics.
  • Licensing Model: Licensing agreements provide a flexible, low-risk approach to expanding brand reach.
  • Established Relationships: PERY has well-established relationships with major retail partners and a large wholesale distribution.

Moat Assessment

Moat Rating: 2 / 5

PPERY’s competitive advantages are limited. They have a large brand portfolio and this does create some switching costs and premium pricing (as it has been shown in brand-name apparel studies), but its not big enough to create any truly defensible economic moat. Here’s a detailed breakdown:

  • Intangible Assets (Brands):

While PPERY owns several brands (Perry Ellis, Original Penguin), it has many licensed brands. The strength of these brands does give some moat, especially as long as consumers prefer branded apparel and they are willing to pay for it. This advantage is moderate, though, because fashion trends can change fast and brand popularity can be fleeting.

  • Switching Costs: Switching costs are minimal. Apparel purchases are often emotional and not related to long lasting relationships with the brand. Consumers are likely to switch brands based on fashion trends or if they are offered similar clothes from another brand at a better price.
  • Network Effect: The company’s business model doesn’t benefit from any network effects.
  • Cost Advantages: While the company has its own supply chain and manufacturing, it operates on a globalized environment, with a multitude of competitors with similar methods, which limits any potential cost-advantage moat.
  • Size advantage: PERY’s size is significant, as it is a fairly large and old brand in this segment, but it doesn’t seem to provide a big competitive advantage.

Given these points, PPERY has a narrow moat rating of 2/5. Although the company has some strengths, it doesn’t seem like the company is able to sustain its competitive advantage over a long period of time.

Risks to the Moat and Business Resilience

Here are the risks that threaten the moat and overall business resilience of PPERY:

  • Fashion Trends: Since the nature of business is fashion, trends can change rapidly, and PPERY needs to adapt very quickly.
  • Intense Competition: Given the low barrier to entry, lots of new entrants can quickly take a lot of market share and disrupt the incumbents.
  • Economic Downturn: Apparel sales, generally, are highly dependent on the economic conditions and consumers may reduce their discretionary spending during recessions.
  • Supply Chain Issues: With a complex and global supply chain, any disruptions may significantly impact production, costs, and revenue streams.
  • Overreliance on Wholesale: Focusing too much on traditional wholesale channels might be a big disadvantage given the increase in e-commerce.
  • Brand Fading: Brands can quickly fade away if not constantly re-invented and improved.

Without a sustainable competitive advantage, the company may not be able to keep its returns on capital, especially in a very competitive landscape.

Financial Analysis

Income Statement

  • Revenue: Historically, revenue is stable and predictable, although it’s still affected by economic conditions and fashion trends.
  • Profitability: The company’s profitability is low to moderate. The margins are below the market averages, especially given their reliance on the wholesale segment.
    • Gross margins have been in the mid-40s, reflecting the impact of promotions.
    • Operating margins are in the range of 6% to 9%, indicating competitive pressures and operational costs.
  • Earnings: PPERY has shown some profits, but nothing significant, as they have a highly competitive market and need to spend significantly on advertising, research, and development to maintain sales.
  • Growth: The company’s historical growth has been below average. Going forward, management expects to focus on growing operating margins more than revenues, indicating some issues with the business model.

Balance Sheet

  • Asset Strength: PPERY has a considerable amount of tangible assets.
  • Debt: The company’s debt is low to moderate, as seen by the debt-to-equity ratio, ranging between 0.8 to 1.1. This is quite low compared to other companies and does indicate the company’s financial stability.
  • Liquidity: It also has a decent current ratio, often greater than 2, meaning it’s capable of covering its current liabilities.

PPERY’s balance sheet is very healthy, but they haven’t been able to use that to grow their profits or revenues.

Cash Flow

  • The company has a generally good free cash flow, usually above $20 million per year, which signals that their operations generate more cash than they use.

Recent Concerns and Management Perspectives

  • In the latest earnings calls, management highlighted a focus on improving margins and controlling costs, as well as focusing more on the direct-to-consumer channel.

The management acknowledges the competitive pressures and the need to improve profit margins to achieve greater value for shareholders.

  • Management has also acknowledged and discussed the need for improvements on their research and development, as well as an improved supply chain.

Understandability Rating: 3 / 5

PPERY has a moderately understandable business. Here’s why:

  • The apparel industry is easily understood by most.
  • The company sells clothing and apparel through owned and licensed brands, which is a very common business model.
  • There are lots of factors affecting the business, such as changes in consumer behavior, macroeconomic conditions and trend changes, as well as many competitors in the market.

Balance Sheet Health Rating: 4/5

PPERY’s balance sheet is fairly robust. Here’s why:

  • Low levels of debt and strong liquidity ratios, which indicate sound management.
  • The company has no signs of any impending bankruptcy, which shows that it’s going to operate for at least the next few years, meaning it has a long runway to improve its business model.
  • A low debt structure means low costs related to debt- which greatly benefits the company in times of increasing interest rates.

Given these points, PPERY has a solid balance sheet, earning a 4/5 rating.